Sunday, February 12, 2012

Grand Central Oyster Bar - The Grand Dame of NYC

Anyone who loves Mad Men or wants to go dancing after dinner should come to Grand Central Oyster Bar. This restaurant, which has been around since long before my grandmother's legendary lunches (6 oysters and 2 martinis is still her favorite lunch).

I come here occasionally for delicious and very fresh raw oysters, but a recent visit had me craving something more substantial.

The decor is retro, but it wasn't when it first opened. The signature cavernous room, filled with casual red checkered tablecloths, is only the first room that you see. There are also u-shaped counters where you can slurp bowls of rich oyster pan-roast, and a saloon in the back where you must order oysters ice cold vodka shots. Go in jeans or suits, alone or with a whole group of people. Don't worry about being quiet or sober. 
Bread Plate
Though I prefer the onion-y seeded crackers, my sister loves the dense biscuits, floury and hot from the oven. We both like the sourdough biscuits, just not enough to give them first place.
Oysters Rockefeller
Named for THE Rockefeller because they are so rich. Oysters broiled underneath a blanket of creamed spinach, topped off with bechamel. The salt of the oysters, the sweetness of the nutmeg-laden creamed spinach, and that creamy, thick bechamel make these the best Oyster Rockefeller in NYC. 
Clam Chowder
Serviceable, nothing more. Sweet clams, creamy potatoes, and a touch of paprika in the background. The flavor was very pure, but the soup is far too thin and the clams are a bit sparse.
King Crab and Rock Shrimp Panzanella with Arugula and Tomatoes
King crab makes regular crab look like cat food. It is the most indulgent shellfish in the world - the sweetest, the butteriest, the richest. I love it when it is warm and served with fresh pasta, but here it is served chilled with snappy rock shrimp in a tart lemony vinaigrette. The tomatoes are a little mealy, but the arugula is properly spicy, the croutons garlicky, and the portion is extremely generous. 
The Oyster Bar is an NYC institution. Come here for anything oyster oriented - the pan roast, the Rockefeller, and the extensive raw bar. Everything else is good to middling, and expensive to boot. But the atmosphere and the truly great oysters are a wonderful tribute to old NYC.
Grand Central Oyster Bar & Restaurant on Urbanspoon

Thursday, February 9, 2012

Vai - The UWS Destination Dining Restaurant

I'll cut straight to the point:
The UWS has a new destination dining restaurant. Not somewhere you go for a quick bite. Not somewhere you eat because you don't feel like schlepping elsewhere. Somewhere you go when you have the time and inclination to spend several hours reveling over a wonderful meal. That's when you go to Vai.

This Mediterranean inspired small plates restaurant is the brainchild of Chef Vincent Chirico.
Did I say chef? I meant chef, owner, sommelier, interior designer, pastry chef, and probably dishwasher if he had his way. Chef Chirico has worked at such restaurants as Jean Georges, Daniel, and Aquavit before opening this restaurant, and his years in top kitchens have led him to doing almost all the work himself. Though this puts a lot of pressure on him, it also means that his vision is always executed perfectly. The atmosphere here is elegant and romantic, with candlelight and modern tableware - perfect for a date or dining solo at the bar.

Bread Service
Though the bread(the only food item not made in house) is unremarkable, the spreads brought with it are anything but. Roasted Garlic Confit is as tender and mild as roasted garlic, Eggplant Spread is creamy and earthy, and Cranberry Bean and Fried Garlic Relish is toothsome and hearty. 
Pear Martini with Pear Infused Vodka, Pear Puree, and Fennel
This drink tastes more indulgent than it really is - thick, creamy, and sweet. It almost tastes like a smoothie - refreshing and energizing but also incredibly light. The kick of vodka is a very good antidote to the naturally sweet pears, and the cocktail has enough booze to really pack a punch.
 Hamachi and Yellowfin Tuna Duo served over Avocado with Preserved Ginger Sauce
This is an example of Chef Chirico's classical training. He takes a classic dish - tuna tartare - and prepares it perfectly, then puts his own stamp on it with the hamachi and preserved ginger. The fish (which is delivered 6 days a week) is pristine. The hamachi is so fatty and unctuous that the tuna seems clean and light by comparison. The avocado adds a buttery richness, and the sauce is tangy and slightly spicy, adding brightness to the dish. An outstanding and perfectly prepared version of a classic. 
Seared Scallop with Parsnip Mousseline and Capers
The star of the meal. I have never had a more perfectly cooked scallop - a thick, charred, salty crust concealing a scallop that was still barely translucent in the center. That is how a scallop should be - medium well done at most, so that it is warm all the way through but not totally opaque. The capers added saltiness that contrasts with the scallop's natural sweetness, and the parsnip puree is smooth and hearty, adding depth to the dish.

Charred Octopus with Arugula Jalapeno Pesto, Calabrian Chiles, and Roasted Fingerling Potatoes
Whereas the previous dishes are subtle and layered, this dish is an in-your-face flavor explosion. Octopus is MADE for the grill. The hearty, rich meat works well with crispy, blackened skin. This eggplant is tender and mild, enlivened by the herbal pesto and those fiery Calabrian chiles. The chiles really pack a punch - if you aren't into heat, ask for less of them on your dish. Also, stop reading this blog. 
Duo of Beef with Filet Mignon and Garlic Confit Butter and Port Wine Braised Short Rib
The steak here is well cooked - thick and cooked to a perfect medium rare with no sinew or gristle. Though the accompanying butter is unnecessary, it is a satisfying piece of meat. But the short rib is above and beyond. Braised for hours in port wine, it has an incredible sweet-tangy-deep glaze on the outside of meltingly tender meat. I can not imagine a better way to make short ribs. This is a must order. 
Passion Fruit Semifreddo
Tart, creamy, and sweet. A multi-layered tasty way to end the meal, with the bright, sour taste of passion fruit colliding with the sweetness of white chocolate.

Almond Pot de Creme
Tasting more of toffee than almonds, this is sweet, buttery, and very decadent. Also, every table gets a portion of this - nothing like a complimentary pot de creme to make you want to return to a place.
And you will want to return. Vai is spot on. The prices are right, the wine and cocktail lists are excellent, the service is enthusiastic but not annoyingly so, and the food is just fantastic. This is a serious restaurant - the food is expertly prepared in exciting ways, and the experience is one that is leisurely and inviting. Nowhere on the UWS is quite like this, which is why I say get on a train, a bus, or a pair of sneakers. Whatever you have to do, get yourself to Vai.
 *Note: My meal was paid for by the restaurant.  I was not paid or required to write a review, and my opinions are my own and, I feel, impartial.*
Vai on Urbanspoon

Wednesday, February 8, 2012

Panera - My Dirty Little Secret

My dirty little secret shouldn't really be a shocker. You know I eat chili dogs. You know I love Frito pies. Does it really shock you that I love Panera?
That freshly baked bread.
That free WiFi.
That bread.
Those courteous, well groomed servers who always get my order right.

Those bread bowls, cookies, and pastries.
One track mind.

Feisty Foodie took me to a Panera preview party for the first Panera location opening in Manhattan NYC. This could be seen as the end of all things New York OR as the beginning of something great. 
Who am I kidding? It's the beginning of something great.
Bacon Turkey Bravo
Smoked Turkey Breast, Bacon, Smoked Gouda, Lettuce, Tomatoes and Signature Dressing, on  Tomato Basil Bread
Please understand that this sandwich is more than the sum of its parts. Smoky, clean turkey. Rich Gouda. Slightly spicy, salty mayonnaise spread. Crisp bacon. Sweet tomatoes and lettuce so fresh that I buy it myself at the supermarket. 
And that bread.
Savory, slightly sweet, soft and yeasty. Sturdy enough to stand up to the dressing, but soft enough to easily tear through with my teeth. Just a perfectly constructed sandwich - the right amount of filling and the right proportions of ingredients.
Baguette
Thin, crunchy crust with a slightly sour, moist interior. Perfect with butter or one of their excellent soups.
Try the French Onion or the creamy Broccoli Cheese soups.
And now that you know my dirty little secret, you might as well confess...
You know you love Panera, too.
*Note: My meal was paid for by the restaurant.  I was not paid or required to write a review, and my opinions are my own and, I feel, impartial.*

Tuesday, February 7, 2012

One Hit Wonders - Good, Le Pescadeux, Pure Thai Cookhouse

I don't always eat full meals at the restaurants I visit - if I had 3 courses and cocktails 5 times a week, I would be gigantic, poor, and probably have palate fatigue. This is a rundown of some delicious dishes that I have had at restaurants on which I couldn't quite write a full review, but  knew that they deserved some notice. 
This restaurant is sophisticated, hip, and romantic with candlelight and an upscale comfort food menu. Though the service was a little uppity and aloof, the food and moderate prices made up for it. 
Burger with Aged Cheddar Cheese and Fries
Coarsely ground meat with a thick, dark crust concealing a warm, rosy patty. It was so moist that juices spilled onto the plate with each bite, saturating the salty fries with delicious bovine taste. The cheese was exceptional - tangy, sharp and thickly cut, and it stood up perfectly to the sturdy but not tough bun and that incredibly meaty burger. I am a big fan of condiments, but actually, this required no ketchup. It was more like steak than a burger - just fantastic, and worth every penny.

This lilliputian SoHo restaurant specializes in Montreal style seafood. That means lots of shellfish, including a fantastic oyster selection:
Beau Soleils, Moonstones, and Pine Islands
The Pine Islands were a first time oyster for me and each one knocked my socks off. Large, soft, and positively creamy - there was no salinity or iron-y taste. These were mild, light, and luxuriously textured. A squirt of lemon was all that was needed - didn't even use any Tabasco here.
The best part? Each night from 4-7 PM, the oysters are all half price. 
Can I get a culinary "booyah?"

Every person who has been to Pure Thai Cookhouse has LOVED it; calling it incredibly spicy, incredibly delicious Thai food in a very casual, inexpensive setting. 
Wok Curry Paste with Pork, String Beans, Eggplant, Basil, Bamboo Shoots, Green Peppercorn Kaffir Lime Curry Sauce
This is perfect for those days when you want something with flavor but not too much spice. It is not overly greasy, garlicky, or salty. The pork is tender, and the sauce is very subtle and well balanced - sweet, bitter, sour, and just a bit spicy. My sister finds it far spicier than me, but she is a major wimp. The eggplant is soft but not mushy and the pork is thickly cut and tender, with no tendons or gristly bits. Pam is still my favorite Thai in the area, but if I had to go back to work in the afternoon and didn't want a major food hangover, this would be my spot for sure. 
And there ya have it: Some of Fritos and Foie Gras' one hit wonders!

Good on Urbanspoon
Le Pescadeux on Urbanspoon
Pure Thai Cookhouse on Urbanspoon

Monday, February 6, 2012

Katz's Pastrami - In a Class of its Own

Sometimes you want to get a bunch of dishes to try everything at a restaurant. Sometimes you want to get a tasting menu so the chef can show off his/her technique. And sometimes, you go to a place where there is really just one thing to order, and to add too many supplements to it would just be slapping a masterpiece in the face. 
Katz's is that place.
Made popular to the masses by When Harry Met Sally to New Yorkers by their grandparents, Katz's Delicatessen is an institution. Operated since 1888, this Jewish-style deli is open 24 hours a day on the weekend, operates via a ticket system (take a ticket when you come in and order at counters, then pay at the end), and is so casual you could come in wearing pajamas and nobody would bat an eye. Katz's serves deli staples like omelettes, grilled cheese, and fries, and for all I know, those things are great! I wouldn't know because I haven't ever ordered them. 
Because I have respect for places of worship.
I mean Katz's. 
Is there a difference?
Stuffed Derma (a.k.a. Kishke)
Ignore the naysayers - this isn't made with intestines like in the old days. This is just stuffing made the fatty, garlicky, Jewish way. Matzo meal, herbs and spices, mixed together into a highly spiced, savory, carby indulgence. And schmaltz. Plenty of glistening, orange tinged schmaltz gives the kishke a luxurious mouthfeel - velvety, smooth, and thick. It really is the world's best stuffing. Dipped in plenty of thick chicken gravy, it wants for nothing. 
Dill and New Pickles
The dill pickles are crunchy and sour, but the new pickles are the really special thing. Firm and cold, they burst in the mouth with a vegetal, clean flavor, more like a cucumber than a pickle. It just has a vague hint of brine - a perfect accompaniment to the main attraction. 
 Pastrami on Rye with Extra Mustard
When you order this at the counter, the man slicing it will give you a few pieces on a plate. No need to ask for the sample - it will just be there. The first bite you take of the pastrami, steam rising off of it, pepper and grease clinging to your fingers, is the best. That first taste is of pepper and garlic. The hearty flavor of the beef. The texture - it really chews like steak. 
Placed between slices of soft, fragrant rye bread and liberally sauced with spicy mustard, it hits many points on the palate: spicy, meaty, aromatic, and salty. I mean, it really is salty - it doesn't taste salty at the time, but you will be gulping water all night. 
It will be worth it. 
Katz's is stupidly expensive  -this meal cost about $30. The place can be crowded, the atmosphere is more brusque than romantic, and absolutely everything here will give you heartburn. 
And blocked arteries. 
And joy. 
No tasting menu in the world can compete.
Katz's Deli on Urbanspoon

Sunday, February 5, 2012

Jalapeno Popper Monkey Bread and Jarlsberg Dip Giveaway

When Kitchen Play contacted me about taking part in 29 Ways to Leap into Jarlsberg Dip, I was good to go. Delicious Jarlsberg cheese, a gieveaway for my readers, and the chance to create a delicious, totally bad-for-you recipe? What about that DOESN'T sound amazing.
The only thing was...what should I make? A decadent pasta? An elegant canape with smoked salmon? Some sort of french fry, poutine-meets-disco-fries dish?
Well, as fate would have it, I was short on time this week. Like, munchkin short on time this week. I needed a recipe that was incredibly easy, foolproof, and could be made in 35 minutes from start to finish. And of course, because it's me, it needed a hefty dose of something spicy. And with that, I give you
Jarlsberg Jalapeno Popper Monkey Bread

Ingredients:
1 container Jarlsberg Dip
2 containers refrigerator biscuits
5 slices bacon, cooked and crumbled
4 jalapenos, diced (if you want to be really evil, throw a couple of diced birds eye chiles in there in place of the jalapenos)
4 Tbs. butter, melted
 1) Put the diced chiles in a medium sized bowl. Also, preheat the oven to 350 F.
 2) Add the bacon,
 and the cheese,
 and mix well to combine.
 3) Take your biscuits from the tin and cut each biscuit into two pieces.
 4) Put a half teaspoon sized dollop in each biscuit, and
 roll,
 crimp,
swirl,
 pinch,
 or flatten your package so the cheese mixture is contained inside the dough. I found it helpful to wet the seams with water to ensure that they stay closed. It doesn't matter what the shape of the dough is - a dumpling, a roll, a squishy package...whatever. Be aware that if a little bit of cheese peeks out, it isn't the end of the world. Just do your best.
 This is what you will end up with - a huge hodge podge of shapes.
 5) Take each roll, dunk it in the melted butter, and...
 put them in a loaf or bundt pan, piling them in closely to each other. They all have to be touching each other so they can bake together into one solid loaf.
 6) Put the loaf into the oven for 30 minutes or until the top is golden brown.
 7) Wait as long as you can before pulling off tuft after tuft, and serve.
This is just great. Buttery morsels of fluffy biscuit dough surrounding creamy, melty Jarlsberg cheese dip, crunchy bacon, and fiery notes of fresh chiles. The beauty of this is that the dip makes the cheese so melty, creamy, and luscious - a direct counterpart to that salty bacon and hot spikes of jalapeno (or, if you are like me, hotter) chile peppers. 
This would be great dipped in salsa or sour cream and chive dip but it was fantastic on its own. For game day, boys night in, or a quick snack before heading out on the town, this can't be beat for convenience and indulgence. 
And speaking of indulgence...why not indulge yourself in this 
GIVEAWAY!:

Jarlsberg USA is holding a giveaway on their Facebook page for a fantastic tote filled with all sorts of Jarlsberg cheese products, including:

Jarlsberg Lite Cheese
 Jarlsberg Cheese Dip
Snofrisk (a Norwegian style cream cheese)
crispbreads
honey crèmes
honey vinegar.
So head on over to our facebook page to enter. Then stay tuned to Kitchen PLAY for all “29 Ways to Leap Into Jarlsberg Dip.”

Because, really...don't you need some Jalapeno Popper Monkey Bread of your own?
Thought so.